Friday, November 1st - Day 52 - Waitangi Treaty Area

 For our last day in Opua, we decided to follow up on some of the history we learned in Russell about Maori/European relations by visiting the grounds where the original Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840.  The community of Waitingi is just up the coast from Paihia, separated by a stream which you cross by a long one-lane bridge.  We were expecting a small site with a commemorative plaque or something - instead, we found gorgeous grounds and a magnificent Maori interpretative center, focused on the Treaty but offering much more.  The grounds had been the home of the British envoy, Hobson, at the time of the treaty.  His home was a prefabricated structure, manufactured in Sydney, Australia and assembled on-site
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Upon arrival after lunch, we signed up for a Maori cultural experience.  We had about 40 minutes to wander up to where the performance was taking place.  After walking through the shop, we natural forest and admired the abundant and diversified plants/birds.  As we waited for the show to begin we caught the tail end of the guided tour that had departed before we arrived - it was fascinating, so after our introduction to the Maori culture - performed by an enthusiastic and talented group of young people - we joined the last tour of the day.

The cultural experience consisted of a simulated encounter of Europeans with Maori warriors - and the symbolic ritual of the Europeans accepting a gift from a warrior to signal peaceful intent.  One of our group had volunteered to be our 'chief' and he took part in the ceremony on our behalf.  We removed our shoes as we entered the hall.  The performance itself involved singing, dancing, and displays of dexterity in rituals that utilized staffs/clubs and pom poms.  It closed with a traditional 'haka'.   It was really interesting but unfortunately, no photos were allowed.   We did, however, have a photo of us taken with the whole group after the performance ended. Maori is the official language of New Zealand  - though most contributions to debates in the legislature are in English!  

The tour emphasized the importance of the Treaty to the evolution of Maori/majority relations in New Zealand.  Also, a great deal of the history of the Maori was conveyed and, among other things, we saw the world's largest dugout canoe.  This vessel requires at least 80 people to operate - and it can hold up to 160 passengers.  It is used only once a year in February to celebrate the anniversary of the signing of the Treaty.  

We learned that prior to contact with Europeans, Maori identified primarily as members of a tribe.  Introductions among Maori included extended descriptions of their home terrain, ancestors, etc.  The word "Maori" in Maori simply means "normal".  Divisions among Maori were rife and violent - some tribes were cannibals.  So in some respects, the arrival of Europeans catalyzed these tribes - the treaty itself was signed by about 50 different chiefs, representing different tribes.

Atmospheric, lovely sunset as we headed home.