Monday, November 4th - Day 55 - Eastern Bays Scenic Mail Run - Akaroa, Banks Peninsula
Our final day in Christchurch was spent following up on a tip from Deb's friend Midge, who has given us many pointers for our stay in New Zealand. She recommended that we take a day tour with a postal worker, or "Postie," who would take us with him on his daily mail delivery routine to remote and incredibly picturesque bays on the eastern shore of the Banks Peninsula (just south of Christchurch). We are so grateful for this tip as it probably wasn't something that would naturally come to our minds as a worthwhile way to spend a day. But, to say it was worthwhile and enjoyable is an understatement.
We got an early start from Christchurch and were on the road by about 7:15 for the hour-and-a-half drive out to Akaroa. Our apartment in Christchurch turned out to be perfectly situated to get us on our way - we took a left turn at the end of our street and were on the right road. The views along the way were absolutely stunning - every new turn brought another vista out over the amazing coastline. We arrived in Akaroa in time to get a coffee and we met Jeff - our "postie" and tour guide for the day! He was running just a couple minutes late as it was a heavier-than-usual mail day and he had to pre-sort it all for delivery. He said Mondays are often busier for him as there is no longer a Saturday delivery, and this is especially true early in the month when bills, checks, etc. are circulating.
Just a few of the amazing views
As we bounced along the one-lane roads - up and down steep hills and deep valleys to reach remote and often tiny coastal settlements Jeff filled us in on the history, culture, economy, and social aspects of these communities. He patiently addressed all our questions, and occasionally gave us some general description of the households he served (an artist who lived without a car in this remote area; a woman who was caring for her dying husband while also working the farm; etc.).
One of our pit stops was a small community center, with a wooden sprung floor for dancing. We tried it out - very springy! On the veranda were the post boxes for the little community and a library.
Jeff shared the story of how he and his wife uprooted their young family from north of Auckland 9 or so years ago and moved down to the peninsula. Suzie had holidayed in the area as a child and felt that it would be a good, rural, environment to raise their son. Neither had jobs but Jeff was confident that as a mechanic and Suzi being a school teacher they would find work quickly. And he got his current job by shadowing and substituting for the regular mail deliverer when they arrived, and inheriting his job when he retired. He talked about the challenges - and the advantages - of having their son attend a school in which two grades were taught in the same room, and in which only between 6-12 students graduated in any given year. He said occasionally a graduating class would have a single student!
No traditional mailboxes here - repurposed microwave, tree stump, birdhouse, metal tent, dog house
After a couple of hours of steady delivering, we were let into a lovely church in which the minister had carved beautiful designs into the woodwork (and some of the stonework), as well as installed a lovely wooden parquet-type ceiling. While we were doing that Jeff was busy setting up a lovely tea for us on a table outside - in the gorgeous sun and with a view through the trees out over the water. His wife Suzi (a school teacher) had made delicious lemon cake and a couple bottles of relishes (including a lovely pineapple and cucumber relish) that we enjoyed along with cheese & crackers. It was a fantastic break!
Stopping for a break at a tiny shop and buying a bag of selected mixed candy (so good!), we noticed a tiny elementary school across the street. Evidently, there were only a handful of students enrolled.
We stayed with Jeff until after 2pm when his delivery run finally was completed - with his own community being the last one on his schedule. He dropped us off at the post office in Akaroa and we headed back to Christchurch. En route, we stopped at Barry's Bay Cheeses to sample some local dairy products - and we left with 4 small pieces of different (delicious) cheeses.
We did a quick shopping after returning to Christchurch, getting some food for dinner and a replacement oven mitt (we had singed one on a hot burner on the stove). Munroe also tried to get clip-on sunglasses to replace the prescription glasses he had left in the rental car in Auckland, but had to settle for a regular pair that he would put over his normal glasses. Then dinner and an early night!